Inflated over London I reach the base of the ‘Walkie-Talkie’. Booked into brunch at Darwin Brassiere I wait for my guest at the blustery base. Here, there was no distinctive smell of warm coffee or the clink of flutes over a bottomless brunch but a growing queue of people and a sign outlining unless booked, there was a two week wait; (as you can tell from writing these words) we were the lucky ones and zoomed up the 36 floors.
First impressions – Sky Garden is more of a tourist attraction than any sort of dining destination, groups of people scatter the well lit space drinking coffee and studying the expanse beneath them. Up another floor the lift pings open to a friendly waitress, my first impression here? Brunch is popular…it must be as it’s completely packed. Squeezing ourselves into the corner (but with admittedly the best view in the house) we smugly ordered a Bloody Mary and glass of Procecco and sat back, scouring over London almost like we owned it.
Darwin Brassiere has all the particulars that you would expect from any half decent breakfast / brunch spot in London; you know the drill – the Eggs Benedict or Florentine and avocado on toast. There are these familiar favourites but more so with other listings, what I like about their menu is that they aren’t trying too hard to stick to convention. This is a menu split into starters, brunch and desserts with sides and a section at the bottom stating ‘freakshakes’. All in all camouflaging that of a dinner menu, with interesting twists.
Starters include Goodwood salt beef with horseradish, watercress and the latest trend of puffed rice, also listed is a tomato salad and pork terrine. My guest ordered maple cured trout which arrived an orange luminous colour on a bed of rocket whilst my red onion tart tatin with rollright cheese (something pretty similar to that of goat’s cheese) also came with the carpet of rocket, a pleasing start.
Coming into play the ‘main event’ of their brunch listing offers pretty much something for everyone. As I say all the brunch favourites are there sitting pretty but other dishes not usually found on a brunch menu also are also featured. Risotto, gnocchi, stone bass filet…tick; and pork belly, plaice and roast chicken… can also be ticked off this menu. Rhubarb’s inventive handmade confit duck burger although was not a force I could be reckoned with. Potentially the most impressive burger (definitely for brunch) I’ve had, this burger is a sky scraper in itself. Of course, a great burger is piled high and here: a fried truffle duck egg, pickles, tomato and lettuce served alongside red cabbage ketchup and a basket of fries. My guest stuck to what she knew best with Eggs Benedict which was dished up in a gluten free form; lacking maybe in gluten but certainly not hollandaise sauce.
Unlike myself, Darwin Brassiere take their desserts very seriously. Laid out in buffet style across the bar, dessert fans go wild. I spot vanilla custard donuts, panna cottas, brownies and lemon meringue pies and cheese… the list certainly goes on. This I’m also sure encourages their diners to stay seated long into the afternoon, especially with one of the best views in town.
Darwin Brassiere has pushed the boundaries of luxury brunching. A daytime gourmet celebration in the clouds of London there is an atmosphere of excitement. The menu is special and something I would head back to explore more of. Who need eggs and bacon for breakfast when you can have risotto and roast chicken washed down with espresso martinis and Bloody Mary’s! Phew. What a brilliant mix the Darwin Brassiere is.
Address: Sky Garden, 1 Sky Garden Walk, London EC3M 8AF, 0333 772 0020, skygarden.london/darwin
