Restaurant Review: Bill and Coo, Mykonos in Greece
I often associate fine dining with capital cities but Bill and Coo throws that assumption out the window. Mykonos is rapidly gaining a reputation for being a playground for the rich and famous, and this restaurant epitomises some of the reasons why.
Everything about this exclusive establishment screams luxury; for starters, it’s nestled away from the island’s busiest towns, meaning you’re completely away from the hustle and bustle. It’s also in a hugely desirable location; Mykonos is a rocky island and, sitting on one of its highest points, is Bill and Coo. As a result, it has an unrivalled view of the sea. Then there’s the actual venue: a futuristic glass box (for dining inside) plus a relaxing outdoor space with tables overlooking the stunning coastline.
My mother and I visited on a warm evening in mid-July to try Bill and Coo’s eight course tasting menu and, three weeks on from dining there, I still think about it! There wasn’t one course that wasn’t sublime.
Executive Chef Michalis Kikis has clearly taken vast amounts of both time and effort to create eight courses which take you on a gastronomical journey. Each dish is immensely inventive, celebrating fresh Greek produce but served in ways I’ve never seen before. A prime example of this is the Greek salad gazpacho shot that diners are given on arrival. When seen on a menu, a shot of gazpacho doesn’t sound overly enticing, but the reality was something very different; courtesy of the cucumber and feta, it was both refreshing and tangy, making it extremely flavoursome.
Another highlight came several courses later in the form of a goat’s cheese and honey baked tomato tart, which was served with delicate caper tuiles and a strawberry and mustard side salad. On paper, it’s a bizarre combination, but, in reality, it tastes divine – take my word for it!
Next up were sea urchin eggs or ‘uni’ as they’re often called in sushi restaurants. Served in a small shell of salty tomato broth with giant couscous, this dish was by far my favourite; but then again, I love salty food!
My Mother’s personal highlight was the cod fricassee which, like the sea urchin dish, had a sushi theme. The fillet of cod was ‘melt in your mouth’, having been carefully cooked sous vide-style. It was served alongside a sushi roll of brown rice, crayfish and mussels and topped with a traditional egg and lemon foam sauce. The dish was a joy to eat! Michalis has a habit of pairing random flavours together and, judging by our night at Bill and Coo, he succeeds in making them work.
Not only has Michalis Kikis conquered the world of savoury flavours, but sweet ones as well. The kooky strawberry and apple sorbet served with basil juice is a prime example of this. The lingering strawberry after-taste totally refreshes your palette after sampling all the savoury dishes.
The pudding, on the night we dined, was Café Chocolate: a rich cacao dessert made up of tiers of mousse, cake and biscuit, accompanied by gooseberry ice-cream, which was a perfect contrast to the bitter taste of the chocolate elements.
As much as I’m praising the food, it’s also worth mentioning the amazing level of hospitality shown by all members of staff. Although we were served by George, every waiter and waitress took pride in hosting their individual tables. Fine dining can have a reputation for feeling rather formal but thanks to the personable, yet professional, nature of the staff (including the chefs!), we felt truly at ease.
To summarise, a night at Bill & Coo is one you won’t forget. Although the food is expensive, it is definitely worth it. I really haven’t seen attention to detail quite like the level they displayed at this unique establishment. There is nothing particularly Greek about the menu, but it is, however, a masterclass in how to serve local produce in a truly imaginative way. It’s a ‘must’ visit during a trip to Mykonos even if you only enjoy a sundown drink on their stunning terrace.
Address: Bill & Coo, Megali Ammos, Mykonos, 84600, Greece
Phone: +30 22890 26292-3