Restaurant Review: Goode & Wright Bistro, Portobello Road in London
Found on the footfall of Portobello Road and a heartbeat from the iconic vintage street markets, Goode & Wright is an all-day dining eatery that warms the hearts and fills the stomachs of the effortlessly cool Notting Hill crowd.
We arrive at midday on a Sunday and the humble tables are filled with yummy mummies, catching up over cappuccinos and smashed avocados; although I am there to try Goode & Wrights new bottomless Sunday roast. A creative twist on the familiar bottomless brunch offering that can be found across the capital, Goode & Wright have introduced this new brunch initiative to open up their Sunday afternoon offering.
A flute of Prosecco and another of peach Bellini, no menu is needed for this zero fuss Sunday indulgence as we are simply offered either roast beef or pork with our bottomless top ups. If Goode & Wright do brunch well, they certainly should also be known for doing a fantastic roast. Succulent pink cuts of beef arrive partnered with all the expected trimmings such as garden carrots, chunky potatoes and generous Yorkshire puddings.
As brunch transitions into lunch, other diners who arrive seem to have a similar idea as the tables around us start to fill with dishes piled with Sunday roasts. This seamless transaction from eggs and avocados to gravy and roasties highlights the dynamism of this humble Portobello eatery. Other bottomless beverage options on offer include Mimosas, Bloody Mary’s and house wines. For dessert, we try one of the new inventive dishes – this comes in the form of their Marmite, chocolate and Guinness cake, we enjoyed with a scoop of pistachio ice-cream.
Goode & Wright’s new bottomless Sunday roast has been implemented by its new team, with owners Oren Goldfeld & Gabriel Muñuz Rodriguez at the helm. Taking a slight departure from the previous traditional French influence, they have now decided to take a root that embraces global flavours whilst embracing small, tapas style sharing plates. Aside from the Marmite and Guinness chocolate cake, areas that display their new culinary creativity include hake ceviche with almond milk and kimchee crumb and for the popular brunch menu, brioche with kaya jam (an Asian coconut and pandan leaf spread).
In keeping with their belief of protecting the famous local character and independent nature of Portobello Road, the name Goode & Wright derives from a 1928 school uniform outfitter who was located adjacent to Portobello School. Tipping their hats to the industrious Mr. Goode and Mr. Wright, the new owners have kept the original signage’s colours and typography.
With this conscious local ethos in mind, the new team at Goode & Wright also make an effort in understanding what their local audience want and have retained the wood paneling and relaxed, welcoming décor of the restaurant. A dynamic but intimate dining space, Goode & Wright is a restaurant made for friendly catch-ups to intimate, romantic dinners.
Address: Goode & Wright Bistro, 271 Portobello Road, Notting Hill, London W11 1LR, goodeandwright.co.uk, 020 7727 5552