Restaurant Review: Heddon Street Kitchen, Mayfair in London
Sweary chef Gordon Ramsay’s Heddon Street Kitchen is good for anything from a hearty breakfast to a schmoozy dinner-date says Nick Constance
Legend has it that pranksters sabotaged the opening of Heddon Street Kitchen by booking multiple tables and not turning up. Thereby leaving poor Gordon to open to a half-empty restaurant. Was it competitor jealousy, industrial espionage, or clever marketing? Who cares? It was a few years ago and it hit the headlines. Either way – win-win.
Located, just off London’s Regent’s Street, Heddon Street Kitchen is equally popular with locals as it is with passing (or disorientated) tourists.
The weekend brunch menu is excellent value and is available up to 1pm. Included are staples such as the oh-so-trendy smashed avocado with poached egg on toast to Sweetcorn fritters and blueberry pancakes. There’s also a full English breakfast to mop up the aftermath of a heavy night on the town.
Heddon Street Kitchen really shines, though, when it comes to intimate dinner dates. The booths are cosy, the music is moody and the wait staff are extremely polite…efficient without being annoying. In other words, we’re left in peace to enjoy a bloody good meal.
The room is attractive in an industrial-chic way – all bare ducts and banquettes, with the obligatory open kitchen. Do try and blag a table with banquettes, rather than one of the stand-alone tables, they offer more privacy and comfort.
Mains include hearty classics such as Burrata Tortellini with artichokes and wild garlic Pesto, slow roasted saddleback pork belly and Loch Duart Salmon with roasted ‘shrooms. If you’re looking for something a little more decadent, a Beef Wellington is yours for a mere 80 quid a pop. (2 people. 45 minutes.)
JJ and I started our meal with a glass of the ol’ Glera grape…a fresh and fruity Prosecco. For food, we ordered Braised Lamb with olive and mint jus and Loch Duart Salmon, respectively. I do believe Gordon Ramsay would have happily sent both these dishes out. We were certainly happy, each dish being beautifully cooked, well-presented and tasty as hell. A delightfully fragrant Valpolicella accompanied our meal.
The menu is also packed with tempting diner-style comfort food, from Fish and chips to Macaroni cheese. Portions are generous, so it’s probably best to go when you’re feeling peckish.
Chef Robert Mazur, formerly of London’s Corinthia Hotel, in Mayfair, is now at the helm of Heddon Street Kitchen. Robert gleaned his skills in a range of venues from award-winning spas and resorts to private members clubs and country hotels. Fluent in 3 languages, his illustrious career began in the oldest French restaurant in London, L’Escargot, in 1992.
If you’ve got little rascals knocking about, at home, you could always treat them to a special Kids Party cooking experience. This unique Party package includes a treat on arrival, plus Tilly’s Lolly Pop Ice-Cream masterclass given by one of HSK’s chefs.
Talking of kids, the upstairs Ice Cream bar is kiddy heaven, with Sundae Specials, glamorous Milkshakes and enough ice cream flavours to freeze your brain.
A parent or guardian must supervise children during the Kids Party, however, and the maximum number of participants is 12. Starting from £45 per sprog.
In addition to a cocktail Masterclass, there’s also a hands-on workshop on how to create the perfect Beef Wellington. (£50 and £130 respectively.) If you were thinking of appearing on Come Dine With Me, this might be a canny investment.
Goat’s milk an’ Oat’s milk
For all you keep-fitters out there Heddon Street Kitchen also offers a health food menu, inspired by Ramsay’s own recipe book, Ultimate Fit Food. Pious delights such as Apple and Spinach Smoothie, Chocolate/Avocado Mouse, and Homemade Tagliolini with roasted squash are available.
Personally, I couldn’t find room for pudding, but JJ reports her Bramley apple crumble with ice cream was “absolutely delicious”.
Let’s not forget the ‘Whet Your Appetite’ section at the top of the menu. Naughty sinsations such as Suicide Shrub, Lady Regent and Naked You help get the party started.
Verdict: The vibe is New York diner, but a high-end one. More Savoy Grill than Greasy Spoon. I’ll be back for breakfast.
Address: 3–9 Heddon Street, W1 / 020 7592 1212
Open: Mon-Fri noon-11pm, Sat 11.30am-11pm. Sun 11.30am-9pm.