Restaurant Review: Lanes of London, Mayfair in London
Hotel restaurants often struggle to retain an identity as a successful stand-alone culinary offering. Attached to the London Marriott Hotel Park Lane, from the offset you may assume this of Lanes of London. Stepping in through its own (and notably grand) Edwardian entrance and onto a polished dark wood parquet flooring, it’s a relief that the space feels more like an elegant and relaxed living room rather than a clinical hotel lobby.
I meet my guest at the bar and we sink into low, deep seats and sip on fruity cocktails before being led to our large and comfortable table. An all-day drinking and dining destination with an overriding British culinary concept, Lanes of London has recently taken on Craig Burrows as Head Chef who has introduced a collection of new menus that cater to its adaptable all day offering.
Exploiting seasonal produce that is also local (as it can be in Mayfair), Craig Burrows has done an excellent job with Lanes of London. Ranging from snacks to sandwiches, salads, grill fish and vegetarian dishes – this new all-day menu covers all bases. To start a delicate plate of smoked duck breast with fennel and celeriac and baked scallops with ceps, celeriac and hazelnut, each are as refined as our surroundings. For our main course we both decide to share the Chateaubriand which comes at £72 for two people and is served with charred onion, vine tomato, rosemary salt. With a side of truffle sweet potato fries and some honey and mustard glazed root vegetables, this was a generous serving and, hands down, one of the finest cuts of beef my guest and had I have had the pleasure of in London.
Served from midday onwards, Lanes of London’s all-day dining menu features starters such as cured mackerel with beetroot and horseradish or a roast tomato and red pepper soup. Mains run from comfort dishes such as seared chicken with mushroom tortellini; to their signature British beef cheek burger, topped with Emmental and bone marrow mayonnaise whilst lighter options include a superfood salad or a club sandwich. The complimentary grill menu options include a yellow fin tuna steak, a sharing board of 900g tomahawk steak with confit garlic, while each Sunday is a traditional roast lunch menu accompanied by free-flowing Brooklyn lager. Desserts range from a must try classic sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream, to an indulgent chocolate torte with strawberry, pistachio and crème fraiche.
Served to the setting of Hyde Park and Marble Arch, Lanes of London also presents itself as fine dining breakfast destination. Morning diners can sit back with freshly made coffee and choose from French toast to halloumi hash. There’s a selection of freshly squeezed juices and smoothies, including Orange Sun (Mango, Banana, Orange, Apple and Guava) and Green Morning (Pear, Apple, Grape, Pineapple, Orange, Kiwi and Dragon-fruit), alongside a selection of Bloody Mary’s or Bucks fizzes for some added glamour.
I am very pleasantly surprised by Lanes of London and would return in a heartbeat. Located within the grandeur of an Edwardian mansion block, interiors are a mix of marble, aged brass and traditional leaded glazing. A combination of wonderfully British inspired dishes from Craig Burrows’ new menu and with personable service, it is a restaurant that may well outshine its hotel counterpart.
Address:140 Park Lane, London, W1K 7AA, 020 76475 6664, lanesoflondon.co.uk, @lanesoflondon