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Restaurant Review: Le George at Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris in France

Selina Julien experiences the best of gourmet cuisine at this Parisian culinary jewel.

By Selina Julien   |  
Le George Paris
Image Credit: Gregoire Gardette

Four Seasons Hotel, George V, Paris is as synonymous with culinary excellence as it is with being one of the world’s leading hotels. The only European establishment to boast five Michelin stars for three of its restaurants, it’s the place to see and be seen for chic Parisians and discerning visitors in the know.

Le George is no exception. The one-star Michelin haunt is headed up by chef Simone Zanoni, who took the helm in 2016 after honing his skills at Claridge’s and Gordon Ramsay restaurants. Bringing his distinctive style to the Parisian fine dining scene, Zanoni has curated a fresh, modern take on classic Mediterranean cuisine, designed for sharing. His exceptional tasting menus have created such a buzz with gourmands that tables here are like gold dust.

Set within one of the most iconic French hotels, venture behind Le George’s glass doors where interior designer Pierre-Yves Rochon has created a timeless, chic setting with a Parisian vibe. The vaulted ceiling blends seamlessly with artwork from Junior Fritz Jacquet where huge windows offer exceptional views of the courtyard.

le george crudos
The exceptional tasting menu kicks off with tasty crudos

For an extra dose of romance, dine in the 400sqm orchid-laden marble courtyard under the starry Parisian nights. It’s an explosion of deep purple blooms and sculptured trees as a show-stopping giant mirrored Jeff Koons orchid sculpture takes centre stage. Wonderfully relaxed, with a soothing jazz soundtrack, it creates the perfect ambience for a memorable date night.

Italian-born Zanoni doesn’t pull his punches delivering exquisitely presented, seasonal dishes for both lunch and dinner covers. Expect octopus cooked over a wood oven fire, candied tomatoes tarte tatin, pan-fried sea bass and crispy hog from Corsica, to name a few. But the piece de resistance is undoubtedly the multi-course tasting menu, which the attentive staff expertly guide us through. Promising to take guests on a journey of flavours between the French Riviera and northern Italy, paired with excellent wine choices from the regions, it doesn’t disappoint.

Gastronomy gems are peppered throughout the well-curated menu, where standouts include melt-in-the-mouth Yellowtail kingfish crudo smothered with a citrus sauce, beef carpaccio paired with black truffle and moreish agnolottis pasta with slow-cooked veal (a much-celebrated dish for good reason) topped with oyster mushroom.

le george pasta
The stunning veal agnolottis with oyster mushrooms are a firm favourite

Zanoni insists that every pasta dish is ‘edible in one bite’ and practises what he preaches with each mouthful bursting with surprising flavours. “My work has been described as a culinary journey for the senses. I want every sense to be awaked and to be dazzled. Furthermore, the look of the dish is as important as its taste, and should always take the guest somewhere or evoke a memory”, says Zanoni. It’s a bold statement but spot on, as all senses are awakened with every dish which cleverly marries his Italian heritage and love of French cuisine.

The main course is Milanese-style veal chop accompanied by a medley of vegetables grown in Versailles Kitchen Gardens. Le George is leading the way for sustainability by using kitchen waste composted to fertilise the soil at the gardens, which grows the organic produce for Zanoni’s Michelin-starred dishes. He says: “When you pave the way to excellence, you have to imagine the gastronomy of tomorrow. And the latter will only flourish through exemplary environmental responsibility.”

Growing up in northern Italy, Zanoni inherited his grandmother’s passion for cooking, where it was second nature to share produce and meals with family and the local community. It was the early inspiration for his tasting menu where diners could bond over a shared feast. Those life lessons still ring true for Zanoni as he continues to tantalise tastebuds with incredible flavours and an elevated dining experience that stays with guests long after their last mouthful.

le george dessert
Fresh seasonal Mediterranean produce are the stars of the menu

Leave room for dessert as the elderberry, strawberry, frozen meringue with ewe milk is a light, refreshing finale. The wine pairings are a match made in tasting heaven from the Philipponnat Royale Reserve Brut Champagne to the Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso, a stunning red wine from Tuscany. It’s a great introduction to an exceptional array of fine wines sourced from vineyards across the Mediterranean, with many surprise vinos now firm favourites.

With Paris being the capital of gastronomy, Le George is the gift that keeps on giving and with Zanoni holding court, the waiting list looks set to get even longer.

Factbox

Le George tasting menu is 138 euros pp (minimum two people), set lunch menu is 70 euros.

Address: Four Season, George V, 31, Avenue George V, Paris 75008
Phone: +33 1 49 52 70 00
Website: fourseasons.com