Restaurant Review: M Threadneedle Street, City of London
There are some defining elements of M Threadneedle Street that I plan to head back for: the smoked Wagu steak tartare, the collection ‘M’ Argentinian Malbec and the salted caramel espresso martinis….
On the surface, M Threadneedle Street is a restaurant that attracts a glamourous clientele sadly often more consumed in their selfies than their glasses of shiraz meaning this stylish city spot does have an air of style over substance; however – having dug a little deeper this couldn’t be futher from the truth.
Passionately elaborating on each element of the food and drink, the knowledgeable team at M Threadneedle Street decidedly know what they’re talking about and don’t hold back in doing so. A multi-faced venue, we start upstairs at the cocktail bar. Whilst my guest sips on a lager I ask the bartender for a popular recommendation – this presents itself as a fruity cinnamon and grapefruit concoction.
We proceed downstairs within the 15,000 sq ft complex in the heart of the Square Mile and have champagne aperitifs as we are led though the à la carte. Sexy starters include cured red prawns, kingfish sashimi or squid tagliatelle, however if you consider yourself any sort of steak aficionado – the smoked Wagu tartare is a dish that truly cannot be missed. Nothing less than a culinary experience for all the senses, this tartare triumph emerges from beneath a glass dome filled with an aromatic smoke that gives diners a hint of what is to come. Delicate and carefully presented, the Wagu is complemented with apples, horseradish and foie gras and is something to savour.
As an overall concept, M Threadneedle Street is a destination that predominantly orbits the greatest of meat and wine Head Chef Jarad McCarroll and Executive Chef Michael Reid source from a carefully selected six countries across the globe that offer the finest in quality and flavour in various different states. These locations which boast the strongest in wine and meat heritage include the US, Japan, Argentina, southern Africa, Australia and France. To avoid steak ‘FOMO’ we select from the elegant menu the 1 kilo International Steak Board: this presents the ultimate in steak decadence with USDA Prime Fillet, Argentinian Rump, French Hanger, Botswana Rib-Eye and Blackmore Skirt. All vary in texture, flavour and appearance for a geographical steak journey.
When it comes to the wine, the passion and knowledge from the sommelier certifies we know that we have a great bottle en route before its even arrived to preside in our capacious booth. I say I am one for a South American tipple and before I’ve finished my sentence he has ‘the one’. Selected himself in Mendoza, Argentina from one of South America’s only female wine producers – this is the restaurant’s very own label and illustrates the in-depth passion for quality and carefully selected produce that Martin William’s M collection holds. It is a gorgeous wine that does our sommelier’s journey across the Atlantic justice.
CEO and city restauranteur Martin Williams opened M Threadneedle Street following the success of the first branch: M Victoria. Previously the Managing Director of Gaucho for nine years, he really has the recipe to make a city restaurant succeed. For example, last year the restaurant’s M Grill was the first in the UK to introduce Kobe which serves grade A5 Tajima-Gyu, the highest quality found in London. Ranging from £18 – £150, the M’s very own on-site butcher also offers master classes allowing the customers to have their steaks cut to a specific size and preference.
M Threadneedle Street: 2-3, 60 Threadneedle Street, London EC2R 8HP, mrestaurants.co.uk/threadneedle, 020 3327 7770