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Restaurant Review: The Hunters Moon, Fulham Road in London

By Georgie Bentley-Buckle on 5th January 2021

It’s like stepping into a friend’s kitchen at The Hunters Moon on Fulham Road. Centered around an AGA: a timeless symbol of quintessential, English rural living – it sets a familiar tone to a friendly dining space that, since opening its doors in October 2019, has welcomed Londoners into their smart kitchen supper set up.

Co-owners Hubert Beatson-Hird and Oliver Marlowe have drawn in the charms of the English countryside to satisfy the palate of west Londoner’s urban lifestyles. A space split into two, enter from the Fulham Road into a cosy, dark wood and olive green pub setting, ideal for a pint of ale and a bar snack. A few steps beyond and into the rear of the venue, you’re met with a contrasting light-flooded dining space: the backdrop for a collection of refined dishes that would give the majority of other so-called ‘gastropubs’ a run for their money.

Since opening back in October 2019, The Hunters Moon has welcomed Londoner’s with open arms into their smart kitchen supper set up

There are many of these ‘gastropub’ setups, and no more so than west London. Not quite a pub nor restaurant, they either hit the nail on the head or should simply drop their knives and resign to pulling pints. From this experience, I was dubious of the Hunters Moon, another new potential masking itself as something more than it simply isn’t. I am pleased this is not the case, and why would it be? Co-owners Hubert and Oliver have the experience collectively under their belts, with Hubert having worked at The Sands End, The Brown Cow and The Mitre, and Oliver the Michelin-starred The Glasshouse and Chez Bruce.

The menu here changes daily, just as it would if you were to visit a friend for supper. Seasonally sensitive too, of course, Hubert welcomes my guest and I in as if it were his own home, proudly running us through the dishes of the day. Prosecco glasses full, we start with a fat burrata with smoked aubergine, olives, harissa and mint and the scallop ceviche which is recommended to us. Served dancing among whipped avocado, pickled ginger and ponzu dressing, this dish is a piece of art and the last thing I would expect to have ordered stepping in 30 minutes previously.

A space split into two, enter from the Fulham Road into a cosy, dark wood and olive green pub setting, ideal for a pint of ale and a bar snack

For mains, a fragrant Thai red curry and some beautifully cooked white fish were picked out among other options including a braised feather blade of beef with parsnip purée, kale, triple cooked truffle and parmesan chips or a soy blackened salmon with stir-fried bok choi, pickled daikon, fried garlic and ginger, which continues to play with Asian influences, juxtaposed against a very English setting.

We visited on a Saturday lunchtime; this also meant The Hunter’s Moon brunch menu was available to us. These dishes span from huevos rancheros with grilled flatbreads, eggs benedict with Gochujang hollandaise and blackened hake, barbecue beef brisket, or a half or full English alongside The Hunter’s Moon’s signature ‘Bloody Susan’ to share. Served on a lazy Susan, this DIY Bloody Mary offers up a choice of Clamato or tomato juice alongside a selection of garnishes to hit the spot for anyone needing a hair of the dog.

Prosecco glasses full, we start with a fat burrata with smoked aubergine, olives, harissa and mint and the scallop ceviche which is recommended to us

Named after the orange harvest moon that often appears in the night sky between October and November, The Hunters Moon combines, and is illustrative of, the experience and learnings of its co-owners. Whether it’s a pint of ale and scotch egg or sparkling wine paired with some fish or locally sourced meat with the odd Asian switch-up, here is a place that ticks the box for a variety of occasions. Be it smart or casual, The Hunters Moon’s prerogative is to fit the bill as your new local hangout, rivalling that of your close friend’s kitchen table.

Factbox

Address: 86 Fulham Road, South Kensington, London, SW3 6HR
Phone: 02039042270
Website: huntersmoonlondon.co.uk