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Restaurant Review: Ginza Onodera, St James’s, London

By Georgie Bentley-Buckle   |  

Ginza Onodera ushers Japan’s dynamic culinary craft into one luxurious locale. From teppan-yacki, a robata grill to private sushi and sashimi dining suites; this fine dining restaurant is an accomplished authentic concept that simply isn’t influenced by anything but the very finest aspects of Japan’s eclectic heritage.

Upstairs the bar is a marble topped attraction in itself and promises for more downstairs. Bar Manager Gergö Nyiri introduces us to Ginza Onodera’s beverage narrative with a cocktail menu that delicately fuses distinctive Japanese flavours with fresh and seasonal ingredients with a selected collection of locally sourced London craft spirits.

True to Japan, step downstairs to the main restaurant space and it’s like a geographical culinary map of the country with an à la carte menu spanning from kobachi (rarely seen in London), tataki, tartare, sushi and sashimi as well as teppan-yaki and robata grill dishes.

True to Japan, step downstairs to the main restaurant space and it’s like a geographical culinary map of the country with an à la carte menu spanning from kobachi (rarely seen in London), tataki, tartare, sushi and sashimi as well as teppan-yaki and robata grill dishes. The space is sleek and elegantly comfortable with traditional Japanese minimalism with modern detailing – courtesy of renowned Japanese design house Yosai Kiyono. Whist echoing the precision of the dishes is wall-fitted mirroring, wooden partitions and polished concrete flooring.

Interactive and versatile, each visit to Ginza Onodera is a new experience.

Interactive and versatile, each visit to Ginza Onodera is a new experience. From the counter, a range of interactive experiences are available to diners with sashimi slicing and made to order seafood preparation. For a personalised set menu, the itamae (specialist sushi chefs) can prepare and hand pick delicate, seasonal choices including octopus, snow crab and salmon roe or rich marbled tuna and sea urchin. And true to the ancient art of teppan-yaki, only the highest quality ingredients such as lobster (Canadian or spiny), black cod, marbled tuna and miyazaki-gyu sirloin are expertly prepared, cooked and sliced for service. When it comes to signature dishes that headline Ginza Onodera, these include exotic and intriguing dishes such as cactus-fed turbot kobujime usuzukuri, Japanese wagyu dumplings and Japanese wagyu nikujyaga, whilst Scottish scallops, Canadian black cod saikyo-yaki and Black Angus beef sirloin come direct from the Robata.

For a personalised set menu, the itamae (specialist sushi chefs) can prepare and hand pick delicate, seasonal choices including octopus, snow crab and salmon roe or rich marbled tuna and sea urchin.

With strong influence from the upstairs bar, the restaurant’s head Sommelier Angelo Lorea has curated a carefully paired wine and sake list too. Across 450 crafted options, alongside the tasteful Japanese dishes, Angelo will recommend sake flavours that encapsulate notes such as fruit, flowers, herbs and spices served at an optimum temperature to complement the variety of dishes throughout the menu. Whiskey aficionados will also relish Onodera’s extensive collection of over 35 Japanese and international single malts and blends, including Yamazaki Distillers Reserve, Suntory Toki, the fine and rare Nikka Yoichi 20.

Ginza Onodera London: 15 Bury St, St. James’s, London SW1Y 6AL, ginza-stjames.com.