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A beginner’s guide on how to start your very own luxury watch collection

By LLM Reporters on 12th February 2020

By Matthew Cule, watch collector and founder of CuleM Watches

So you want a luxury watch collection but where do you start? My first piece of advice is to try not to be influenced by others and hype – this is your collection, and it’s all about you.

I am a watch collector and, for me, it’s about the fact that each watch is a beautiful work of art, and each has its own story. I remember when I bought it, where I was, and what attracted me to it. I remember the person who gave it to me, or who was with me when I made the purchase. Choose watches that speak to you.

There are of course the big name and hundreds of interesting independent watch brands. No matter what you decide to collect, one thing’s for sure you are going to discover lots of fabulous watches.

Matthew Cule is a watch collector and founder of CuleM Watches

Define your style

It’s important to consider your style when building a collection of watches. In my case, I am generally smartly dressed and like to wear an elegant dress watch on a leather strap. Therefore, I prefer to have more watches in this style in my collection. For people who are more casual, they might prefer larger and more rugged watches like a diving watch or chronograph on a metal bracelet. So, think about how and when you’ll be wearing them and choose watches that will suit your lifestyle and your wardrobe.

Connect what you love to watches

If you have a particular interest in certain items or activities, start looking for watches that match what you love. If you love diving, look for diving watches that are water resistant to a certain depth, and can be used for scuba diving. If you love travelling, look at dual time watches like a GMT or world timer that you can use on your travels and read the time in two or more zones. Having a connection to a watch is important when building a collection because you will not only take pleasure in looking at it, but it will always remind you of your passion.

Variety is the spice of life?

For some collectors that I have met, variety is the spice of life; they aim to have many different pieces in their collection with different functions like a date, GMT, chronograph, annual calendar, alarm, world timer, etc. I understand this type of collector and I used to collect watches like this. However, these days I tend to wear the watches that I connect to the most – which, in my case, is travel watches.

It’s important to consider your style when building a collection of watches

If I were to start collecting watches again, I would be more individualistic in my approach and buy beautiful watches that I love to look at and connect with on a personal level. It’s not just about the watch for me. It’s about the connection and wanting to be constantly inspired by the timepiece I see on my wrist.

Think about when you are getting dressed for the day and you are choosing which watch you want to wear, choose the one that you love and ignites your passions, and makes you feel at your best. Those are the kinds of watches you want in your collection.

What type of watch do you want?

There are four main types of watches in terms of the mechanics: automatic (also called self-winding); manual winding; quartz; and smart watches.

The last decade saw the rise of the smart watch, dominated by Apple. These watches don’t tend to hold their value like other watches as they are out of date very quickly. They aren’t built to last. However, if tech is your thing, (and remember this collection is YOUR collection) then there are some interesting watches to collect.

Quartz watches are battery powered and go tick, tick, tick. Quartz watches are generally cheaper than automatic or manual winding watches and in my view, they are not designed with the intention to last a lifetime. The main advantage with a Quartz watch is that you never need to wind it, but many collectors avoid them as they aren’t considered to be high-end or luxury and don’t hold their value as well.

The holy grail of watches is considered to be automatic and manual-winding watches that can be passed on from generation to generation. Both types of watch can be manually wound and automatic watches benefit from continuously winding themselves as you wear them. Both types of watches will also have a power reserve. For example, CuleM’s GMT watches all have an automatic movement and 42-hour reserve.

There are four main types of watches in terms of the mechanics: automatic (also called self-winding); manual winding; quartz; and smart watches

If you wear an automatic watch every day, you will probably not need to wind it. If you vary the watches you wear then you may need to wind it slightly when you put it on after a break – just to get the movement started. Manual winding watches do not have this automatic (self-winding) function and will need winding regularly.

When starting a collection, I would recommend buying an automatic watch that is Swiss made, which will potentially last a lifetime – making a great watch with which to start your collection.

World made watches

Many argue that Swiss made watches are the gold standard and they are of course excellent, like almost anything Swiss-made.

Swiss-made watches are a good place to start when building a collection because of the variety of brands, quality, prices and functionality. Other countries to look at include Germany and Japan, which both have some lovely, high quality brands.

Digging deeper

As you progress in your watch collecting journey, you will probably want to dig deeper and get to know more about watches, the inspiration behind them, the story of the brand and its founder. To really connect with a brand, you may also want to know about their vision, and chat with the founder. This way you can get a real sense of the brand and know if it’s one you wish to follow and buy more watches from in the future.

Watch events like Baselworld in Switzerland, Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair, Miami Watch and Wonders, and Dubai Watch Week are a great way to do this. There are also smaller local events which you can search for online. You can meet the people behind the brand, get to know them, and understand the vision for their future collections.

Swiss-made watches are a good place to start when building a collection because of the variety of brands, quality, prices and functionality

Lead not follow

Most peer groups will see the same or similar watches around the dinner or meeting room table. Last summer, I spent the day with friends, and all I could see on the majority of the wrists were one or two big name watch brands. If your watch is simply a status symbol, this may make sense, but if your watch is about expressing your individuality – then do look for brands that speak to you, and not just the ones your peer group are wearing. A great, but little-known watch, can be a great talking point. So, lead the way. Collect what appeals to you. Choose the brands you like – whether they are well-known or a small independent. Remember, this collection is about you, not anyone else.

In short, let your collection reflect you. Think about what you are passionate about and your general style. Then, browse watches online, attend events and check out some shops. Most importantly, enjoy the journey and happy collecting.

About CuleM Watches

CuleM Watches is an independent watchmaker founded by watch collector and traveller Matthew Cule. CuleM ‘s World GMT collection of Swiss made dual time automatic watches celebrates the beauty of our amazing world and are designed for people who love to travel and collectors of exquisite timepieces. CuleM will have a stand at Baselworld this year showcasing The World GMT collection from 30th April to 5th May 2020.