The island of Dominica is an untouched pocket of the Caribbean, with lush mountainous forests, sulphur pools, volcanic springs, and bountiful reefs teeming with sea life. I visited last month and drank in the awe-inspiring scenery at every turn. There is a mantra that everything and anything grows on Dominica, due to its nutrient-rich volcanic soil.
Like its sister islands, before Dominica gained its independence, the island was ruled by the colonial French, Spanish and English over the years. Its national tongue of Creole is therefore peppered with different influences, yet closest to French – with landmarks for instance named ‘Morne Trois Pitons’.
Dominica operates at a slower pace and arguably as a result has the highest number of centenarians in the world. And with just 70,000 inhabitants, it is a perfect antithesis to the hustle and bustle of busy life back home. British guests will also feel at home, as on this island you drive on the left.
Hotel
I stayed at Fort Young, a four-star oceanfront hotel in the island’s capital, Roseau. While the hotel first opened in 1964, the land upon which it sits dates back to 1699, having evolved from a military fort to a central police station and, presently, a hotel. A full-scale refurbishment of the property is underway and will see an additional 60 rooms added to the current inventory of 40. A new spa and a gym were added earlier this year.
The hotel entrance will also be moved to a grander position at the top of the property which should make arrival to the hotel feel a little less industrial than its current temporary, sea level reception. The original entrance and a number of rooms were damaged in the last hurricane in 2017.
Walking around the resort, I felt like I was situated on a luxury liner, especially looking out across the infinity pool with its ship-style white railings and views directly out to sea. The nature of the island is also reflected all around the property with a mini rock face waterfall feature, stone courtyard and fishpond just past reception, for example.
We discovered from staff that traditionally the hotel’s clientele has been more corporate, but this is changing. During our stay we saw a mix of business associates, diving groups and families dining – but the hotel predicts their guest profile will move more in the direction of the leisure traveller, with their US$14 million expansion.
Room
Rooms were smart, well-equipped and had a stateside quality, with coffee percolators, excellent thread count sheets and all the mod cons in terms of AC, smart TVs, safes, and mini bars etc. We particularly enjoyed our ocean front balcony.
Beautiful vintage-style island map artwork adorns the back walls of all suites, reminiscent of colonial times and the sound of waves lapping at the rocks underneath your window additionally creates a magical white noise to soothe you to sleep.
Food
The resort’s smart restaurant Palisades attracts guests for its Caribbean dishes and bountiful breakfasts, offering dining inside and al fresco it is Roseau’s only seaside restaurant. The restaurant is directly accessible from the hotel’s private jetty, enabling yachts and other boats to moor up for an onshore lunch or dinner.
Panoramic ocean views are paired with a menu that showcases the natural bounty of the island, with locally sourced ingredients straight from nearby farms and the Caribbean Sea. Dishes include locally caught lionfish Bon Femme, Fort Nut soup blended with carrot, ginger and callaloo coconut or char-grilled lobster with lemon butter and seasonal greens.
Spa
The new Zemi Spa is housed on the ground floor, which was being completed when we visited and is aimed at offering an indulgent experience while focusing on wellbeing. Treatments can be taken in room (or on your balcony) or at the waterfront spa, while yoga classes, an infinity pool and Jacuzzis can be utilised for the ultimate experiences.
I booked in for a massage during my stay and the treatment room’s calming sea views and natural oceanic soundtrack led to a sweeping sensation of serenity, even before the massage began (that was also heavenly). With the new Island-Included package as detailed below, guests can enjoy two 60-minute massages during their stay.
To do
Fort Young benefits from being located close to Dominica’s Botanical Gardens, Boiling Lake, Morne Trois Pitons National Park, natural thermal spas and scenic plateaus. The hotel is a pro-choice for amateur and expert divers and snorkellers alike. Its outstanding dive centre benefits from dropped cannons and shipwrecks to explore, right on the reef outside.
Whilst staying, we had the privilege of experiencing the island’s sizzling underwater springs, at the apt-named Champagne Reef on one of the hotel’s special snorkelling experiences. We were guided into the water in our small group by Brad, the gentle-natured and incredibly knowledgeable divemaster. Brad pointed out numerous colourful creatures, including stingray, octopus, puffer fish and many different types of coral.
As we gently flipped along, helpfully all holding on to a lifebuoy for support, I felt we could have been part of a film crew for the TV show Blue Planet, so dense was the amount of wildlife below. The finale of the trip was arriving at a shallow underwater ravine, where sulphur bubbles sprung to the surface like grey pearls. A magical site and truly breath-taking. In the words (almost) of Oasis, it was ‘like a champagne supernova in the sea’.
If getting in the water isn’t so much your thing, the hotel is also a mecca for boat enthusiasts. You can hire a boat to do whale or turtle watching – arrive between May and October and three of seven globally endangered turtle species can be seen swimming and nesting along the shore.
Fort Young is the perfect gateway for exploring all the amazing island of Dominica has to offer. To ensure guests get the most from their stay, the hotel recently introduced the Caribbean’s first-ever ‘All-Inclusive, Island-Included’ resort experience. Beyond the offerings of a traditional all-inclusive, like food and beverages, guests can also enjoy city, land and/or sea adventures each and every day.
Off-property island activities include a community touch point — whether it be a sweet treat or cocoa tea from a local restaurant or rum shop, a local arts and craft offering or a cultural experience. By involving independent tour providers and local food and beverage outlets, the package caters to guests while also supporting the local community.
Factbox
Getting there: Access to Fort Young is by either Canefield or Douglas-Charles Airport, or by ferry from neighbouring islands.
Rooms can be booked from £200 per night based on double occupancy in an oceanfront room. Or choose from a 10 or 14-night stay split between St Lucia and Dominica. 14 nights from £3,879 per person. Seven nights at Bay Gardens Beach Resort, Saint Lucia followed by seven nights at Fort Young, Dominica on all-inclusive, international and inter-island flights, private transfers and access to UK airport lounge on departure. Contact Caribtours on telephone 020 7751 0660, caribtours.co.uk for further information and specific pricing.
Address: Victoria Street, Roseau, Dominica, Caribbean West Indies
Phone: +1 767 448 5000 or UK tollfree: 0800 0291 547
Email: info@fortyounghotel.com
Website: fortyounghotel.com
