Words by Kalpana Sunder
Driving across vast tracts of mustard, cotton and wheat fields, we reached Shahpura Bagh through the narrow, crowded lanes of Shahpura town, situated between Jaipur and Udaipur.
The boutique luxury property, belonging to RARE India’s collection, is set in 45 acres of gardens and verdant fields, with wetlands, neem and Ashoka trees and peacocks roaming on the grounds. The property, which has two heritage buildings that were once granted by a Mughal emperor to his trusted lieutenant, is now run by his descendants, Jai Singh and Shatrujeet Singh and their wives.
Hotel
A whitewashed Indo-Saracenic building, the Umaid Niwas, with comfortable sofas in the verandah lead into the main reception area, with sepia images from the past on the walls, and coffee table books on wildlife and Indian culture displayed throughout.
Behind this building is a large swimming pool with Mediterranean style day beds with billowing white curtains, a large tent with a block printed awning and book shelves, and an outdoor bar. Gargantuan trees dot the property with a prolific bird life from noisy parakeets to spotted owls. Hammocks and charpoys (string cots) on the lawns, strewn with cushions, encourage lazing with a book or bird watching.
Room
The boutique property has nine luxury suites in all. The main 19th century building, Nahar Niwas, remains the family home with one guest suite and the living room and dining room is open to guests. The living room, furnished with memorabilia from the past, from a stuffed armadillo and tiger to stag heads on walls, hunting trophies, and images of the family from the past, is an atmospheric place to have a drink and starters.
Umaid Niwas, the second building built in a Gothic- Rajasthani style has six suites with large bathrooms, boasting bathtubs. Each room is unique, with arched windows, high ceilings, bright rugs on the floor, a coffee/tea maker, crisp linens, block printed curtains and a small study. The new villa annexe has two elegant suites of 1,200 square feet each, an outdoor shower, a private verandah and a bright and airy courtyard.
Food and drink
The food served at Shahpura Bagh is home cooked style, without too much spices or heavy masalas, following old family recipes and a mix of soups, salads, North Indian and continental fare. Most of the produce is fresh and comes from their own and neighbouring farms.
Breakfast is served on the lawns, with jams, fresh fruit, cereals and then a choice of Indian breakfasts of poha, dosas, parathas or Western breakfasts of omelettes, toast, etc. Light lunch is served near the swimming pool and ranges from pizzas and sandwiches to burgers and pastas. Dinner is by candle light at Nahar Niwas and offers a set menu of a soup and starters followed by a North Indian main course of curries, dal, rotis, rice and desserts. Parikshat, the mixologist makes some great cocktails and mocktails.
To do
Shahpura Bagh has two large water bodies, walking trails and a great bird life with more than 180 species being spotted, from painted storks and warblers to pochard ducks and spotted owls. The hotel’s naturalist Shabbir Khan, armed with his binoculars and guide book, can take you on a guided birding excursion. I enjoyed my drive through neighbouring tribal villages in a vintage Kaiser jeep, interacting with locals and stopping by at the school run by the family.
Driving past the gargantuan Nahar Sagar lake to the family farm, spread over 140 acres with giant honeycombs on trees, is another great excursion. Don’t miss the evening trip to the ancient Ram Dwara temple, followed by a visit to the family fort at Dhikola, with sundowners on the turrets and views of fields and shimmering water bodies. I also enjoyed meeting a Phad painter from the local Joshi family, who continues the ancient art of painting deities and folk tales on large scrolls of cloth which are sung by the priest singers.
In a nutshell
Located between Jaipur and Udaipur, Shahpura Bagh is the perfect rural stopover for those who want a couple of days away from the hustle and bustle of Indian cities.
Factbox
Getting there: Fly to Jaipur International Airport which is 220 km away and hire a taxi from there.
Suites can be booked, starting from Rs 45,600+18%GST (455 GBP+18%) for two including all meals and one cultural activity in the winter (Oct-April). Summer rates start from Rs37600+18%GST (375 GBP + 18%) or the same (May-Sept).
Address: Shahpura Bagh Rd, Rajasthan, 311404, India
Phone:+91 9587004999 | +91 9982226606
Email: bkg@shahpurabagh.com
Website: shahpurabagh.com
