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How to spend 48 hours in mesmerising Munich

LLM travel writer Rebecca Underwood enjoys a mini break in this charming and historic city.

By Rebecca Underwood   |  
munich skyline
Image Credit: München Tourismus

Munich, the captivating capital of Bavaria, the largest German state, is located on the river Isar to the north of the Bavarian Alps, and continues to attract tens of millions of visitors every year, all of whom are sure to be enchanted by its fascinating folk lore and charming traditions.

It is thought that Munich was founded in 1158 when the Duke of Saxony and Bavaria, Guelph Henry, built a toll bridge across the river Isar, which was the main thoroughfare for the old salt route. Munich was granted city status in 1175 and when Otto Wittelsbach I became Duke of Bavaria, the city was handed over to the Bishop of Freising until 1240 when Otto Wittelsbach II took control.

In 1255, when the Duchy of Bavaria divided; Munich became the ducal residence of upper Bavaria. In 1314, Duke Louis IV, of the Wittlebach dynasty, became King of Germany and in 1328, when he was crowned Holy Roman Emperor, he granted Munich the salt monopoly securing the city’s financial position. In 1506, when Bavaria was reunited, Munich emerged as its capital.

munich sunset
Munich is a captivating city, the capital of Bavaria since 1506. Image credit: München Tourismus

Today, Munich offers visitors the opportunity to experience the old and the new; a mixture of modern architecture, such as the Allianz Arena, famous for its exterior of colour changing inflated ETFE plastic panels, and historic churches in the centre of the city, such as the Peterskirche, built during the Romanesque period in the 12th century, and the Frauenkirche Cathedral, constructed in 1468; its twin towers topped with onion shaped domes are Munich’s best known landmark. Many visitors are keen to see a popular, yet disturbing attraction, which is said to be Satan’s footprint embedded in the church floor.

For a taste of Bavarian hospitality, I visited the Hofbräuhaus am Platzl. The history of the inn dates back to 1589 when Duke Wilhelm V founded a royal brewery; a few paces away from today’s site. In 1828 King Ludwig I declared by decree that the royal beer hall would be open to the public and he remains the toast of the town.

munich hofbrauhaus
The Hofbräuhaus am Platzl dates back to 1589

I headed for the Bräustüberl on the first floor and savoured the wonderful atmosphere as the strains of the brass band playing on the ground floor enticed the diners to sing, dance and be merry, and I didn’t take much persuading. The menu features a wide choice of Bavarian dishes, including the most succulent roast pork with crackling, served with homemade gravy and a fat potato dumpling and, of course, a glass of Hofbräu beer was absolutely essential for raising my glass to King Ludwig I.

After such a sumptuous feast and much merriment I was looking forward to an extended period of relaxation followed by a deep slumber. For the ideal place to stay in the heart of the city and a stone’s throw from the alluring designer boutiques on Maximillianstrasse, the Mandarin Oriental, located on Neuturmstrasse, offers guests the highest level of service and comfort.

munich mandarin oriental suite
The Mandarin Oriental offers guests the highest level of service and comfort. Image credit: Mandarin Oriental

This beautiful Neo-Renaissance property, built in 1880, was once Munich’s opera house. The lavish rooms and suites are stylishly furnished with comfortable beds, spacious marbled bathrooms with under floor heating, and luxuries include a Bang and Olufsen television and a complimentary mini bar, should guests fancy a late night tipple. Hotel facilities include a fitness centre with state-of-the-art cardiovascular and weight training equipment.

However, I prefer to take things easy, and headed for the Mahjong Roof Garden to take a few leisurely laps in the outdoor heated swimming pool and I then selected a seat at the open-air bar, ordered a delicious cocktail and admired the stunning views. Feeling a little peckish after my exertions, I didn’t need to go far for a magnificent dining experience.

Nobu Matsuhisa’s in-house restaurant offers a new style of Japanese-Peruvian cuisine and it is exceptional. Signature dishes include the black cod and yellowfin tuna sashimi with jalapeños and, served alongside a glass of Nobu the Sake, with its clear and complex floral notes, it is an unforgettable dish.

munich mandarin oriental roof
The Mandarin Oriental’s Mahjong Roof Garden has stunning views across the city skyline. Image credit: Mandarin Oriental

If you prefer to dine al fresco, head for the Brenner on Maximillianstrasse. This very popular restaurant features an open grill, where a frenzy of chefs prepares a fine menu. I savoured the mouth-watering entrecote of blank Angus rind and treated myself to a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon Montello e Colli Asolani 2012.

For a more casual affair and a taste of Italy, visit Bar Centrale on Ledererstrasse. This buzzing restaurant is very popular with Munich’s Italian community and those ‘in the know’. The homemade pasta is first class and you won’t find a frothier cappuccino.

Munich is ideal for those who like to take a leisurely stroll around the city seeking out the local attractions such as Marienplatz in the city centre, the site of the stunning neo-Gothic New Town Hall. I paused awhile and admired the striking façade of the world famous carillon, which features eye catching gargoyles, imposing statues and a fierce looking dragon scurrying up the towering turrets. During the summer months, the glockenspiel entertains the crowds at 11am and 12pm and also at 5pm from March to October. 43 bells and 32 life-sized figures depict the story of Duke Wilhelm V’s marriage to Renata of Lorraine.

munich marienplatz
The Marienplatz with its most important towers. The Frauenkirche, St. Peter’s Parish Church, popularly known as Alter Peter, and the New City Hall. Image credit: München Tourismus

For a taste of Munich’s cultural heritage, I made my way to the Residenz Museum, a sprawling complex of buildings, which was home to the ruling Wittelsbach family from 1508 until the early twentieth century. I feasted my eyes on the glittering treasures including exquisite collections of china, silver and miniatures. There is also a fine collection of paintings and bronze sculptures dating back to the 16th century. Other exhibits include beautiful tapestries, furniture, candelabras and sparkling chandeliers.

For a spot of lunch I visited Brasserie OskarMaria at the Literaturhaus on Salvatorplatz. Tables are situated on the ground level or first floor. I decided to dine al fresco and indulge in a spot of people watching. The service is excellent and the ox tartar, served with a fried quail’s egg is scrumptious. Be sure to sample a glass or two of the 2009 Montessue Isola dei Nuraghi and savour the moment.

In a nutshell

For a real taste of Bavarian hospitality, visit Munich; it’s a city full of charm and you’ll be mesmerized.

Factbox

Take advantage of the efficient and friendly check-in service and the highest level of comfort and service on board; ‘fly the flag’ with British Airways from London Heathrow to Munich. For more information visit britishairways.com.

For more information on the featured accommodation visit mandarinoriental.com.