Restaurant Review: The Dining Room at The Goring, Victoria in London
Move past the vibrant richness of the red bar and lounge of The Goring Hotel and a few paces along the marble corridor and you will come to their Michelin starred Dining Room. Smooth cream colours dress the capacious space with crisp, thick white table cloths and flashes of fine silverware that dance gracefully across the elegant restaurant.
A visitor to London, or to the UK in fact, will seamlessly lap up the quintessential British elegance of The Goring’s Dining Room – but for us Brits The Dining Room’s menu has to exceed presumptions and over familiarity of home soil. To do this their menu encompasses British cuisine to the highest of standards with their ingredients sourced from carefully selected producers across the UK, with examples including Romney Marsh lamb to fish from the Cornish coast and Clarence Court hens’ eggs.
The smiling waiter leans over our round table situated in the corner of The Dining Room whilst I ask for a signature recommendation. I am politely informed that this would be the Eggs Drumkilbo – a starter dish with character and an air of timeless sophistication. A fairly clumsy name, this dish intrigues me – and I like it even more when I learn there’s a story behind it as The Queen Mother’s favourite; tactfully playing upon British legacy. Amongst others, starters include Hereford beef tartare; chicken soup glazed with wild mushroom, confit egg yolk and celery or pressed game terrine with crispy fried rabbit.
Beef Wellington I have always favoured so if you are able to persuade your guest (served for two to share) the Beef Wellington is the pinnacle of their menu. Presented on a silver carriage, the Beef Wellington really is the royal member of The Goring’s menu. Smartly carved before our very eyes (and our dining neighbours nearby), the Wellington is served ruby medium rare and is not without an envelope of thick, crispy pastry. This is British cuisine at its greatest and most opulent.
For dessert we play the ying and yang of sweet verses savoury. A chocolate delight is the Manjari dessert served with milk jam, salted caramel mousse and a serving of simple milk ice cream whilst hailing all cheese admirers – a spread of fine cheeses are proudly wheeled over for inspection. Large creamy chunks of many varieties adorn the large cheese slate and over selection are sliced and served delicately across a china white platter with biscuits, chutney and a segment of quince.
On reflection, a three course dinner for Head Chef Cooper and his devoted team to be proud of. Although despite a restaurant of tradition, it was only a shame that our evening wasn’t shaken up with the companionship of any unsuspecting aperitifs; maybe that’s too conventional for a Michelin star these days?
With three AA Rosettes and the possession of a Michelin star, The Dining Room at The Goring proudly stands its territory of prestige within the minefield of fine dining. Ironically what makes this establishment different is that they are not trying to be different at all. The fundamentals of a refined British dining room – the super suave service, menu and setting encompasses into one the finest highlights of British dining with only top quality credentials; whilst blowing a raspberry towards the perceptions of modern dining.
Address: The Dining Room at The Goring Hotel, 15 Beeston Pl, London SW1W 0JW, 020 7396 9000, thegoring.com/food-drink/the-dining-room
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