Restaurant Review: Ella Canta, Park Lane in London
Mexican mastermind Marth Ortiz’s new restaurant Ella Canta continues to host an abundance of Londoners looking to satisfy their edible intrigue for the very finest, authentic and luxurious Mexican food. A little explored cuisine here in Europe, gastro aficionados and city socialites have been flooding to the tables at Ella Canta – a new dining concept that has been dubbed London’s best new Mexican.
Dinner at Ella Canta promises a carousel of colour within an interior mirroring its unmatched magic. The à la carte menu is a theatrical show: Overture (starters) sharpen tongues with a variety of classic Mexican ingredients that Martha has dazzled with her artistry. Jazzed up guacamole is paired with ricotta cheese, pomegranate and a gold grasshopper; seabass ceviche is delicately paired with mango and sangrita sorbet and a Mexican caesar salad interpretation is served.
Main Act dishes present a choice of fish, meat and vegetarian options. A blend of ancient cooking traditions with a captivating contemporary style – evening dishes ideal for either sharing or to keep all to yourself include soft shell crab with guajillo hummus and pineapple purée; black cod with potato and ajillo guajillo chile, seabass and cabbage tortillas or beef fillet with black chichilo, ashes and aubergine. Each are inventive and carefully coordinated, hinting to the heritage of Mexico’s rich culinary heritage and have been bought up to speed to satisfy high expectations.
Desserts come into play in the form of Ella Canta’s ‘Final Curtain’. These are safer and less playful in comparison to the Main Act and again are easy for sharing. Mexican churros are served with caramel or chocolate, a selection of ice creams and sorbets have been given their own dose of Mexican inspiration and warm cacao comes with a serving of corn cake and pinole ice cream.
Ella Canta (Spanish for ‘she sings’) is funky, fun and bright and is just what we Londoners need. David Collins Studio has thrown in waxy foliage, pink walls and a hand-carved, floor-to-ceiling walnut installation running the full length of the restaurant and is inspired by the work of Mexican furniture designer Eugenio Escudero. The architecture celebrates Ricardo Legorreta, ceramics of Gustavo Perez and textures from Ernesto Alva, set the scene. The eclectic menu taken from Mexico City, draws inspiration from Martha’s world-renowned Dulce Patria in Mexico City.
Strength of character shines strongly from the bright walls of Ella Canta and once inside it’s easy to forget that it is part of the InterContinental London Park Lane. The new stylish Mexican restaurant has also paired up with the prestige of Theo Randall for a meeting of two renowned chefs as one, adding to the highly-specialized dining destination that is exciting, playful and designed to surprise.
Ella Canta: One Hamilton Place, Park Lane, London W1J 7QY, www.ellacanta.com, 020 7318 8715