Restaurant Review: Ginza Onodera, St James’s in London
When you think of Japanese cuisine, sushi inevitably comes to mind. However, drawing out the true authentic qualities of a vastly dynamic country, Ginza Onodera, in St James’s London, has introduced a game sushi selection: turning our attention to the truly traditional land-based cuisine that is farmed and hunted in the Japanese mountains.
Unsurprisingly it is London’s first game sushi offering. Responsibly sourced here in the UK it was launched in August in line with the return of the annual game season. For this unique new offering, Head Chef Ryosuke Kishi has developed his very own signature venison sushi nigiri marinating the tender meat for three days. Fusing the naturally smoky notes of game with a taste of the orient, a premium grade venison tenderloin is marinated in an authentic blend of sake, sakiyo miso, sake kasu and arima sansho pepper, before being expertly sliced and garnished with grated spring onion, ginger and Nikiri soy sauce.
Also true to Japan, step downstairs to the main restaurant space and it’s like a geographical culinary map of the country with an à la carte menu spanning from kobachi (rarely seen in London), tataki, tartare, sushi and sashimi as well as teppan-yaki and robata grill dishes. The space is sleek and elegantly comfortable with traditional Japanese minimalism with modern detailing – courtesy of renowned Japanese design house Yosai Kiyono. Whist echoing the precision of the dishes is wall-fitted mirroring, wooden partitions and polished concrete flooring.
With exquisitely crafted menus, private suites dedicated to sushi and teppan-yaki plus a robata grill and stunning cocktail bar, I can’t rave enough about this exquisite Japanese haven. Ushering in Japan’s dynamic culinary craft into one luxurious locale – this restaurant is sure to give foodies a wave of excitement of what is to come. Signature favourites to pair with the meat come in the form of cactus-fed turbot kobujime usuzukuri, indulgent Japanese wagyu dumplings and Japanese wagyu nikujyaga. Whilst Scottish scallops, Canadian black cod saikyo-yaki and Black Angus beef sirloin come direct from the robata grill.
An accomplished authentic concept that simply isn’t influenced by anything but the very finest aspects of Japan’s eclectic heritage, this new game sushi selection showcases its wonderful individual ethos. The venison sushi is priced at £10 for three pieces and is available to order from Monday 20th August. Other dishes on Ginza Onodera’s limited – edition game menu to look out for this autumn will include: duck, foie gras, quail and pheasant.
Address: 15 Bury St, St. James’s, London SW1Y 6AL, ginza-stjames.com.