Words by Melissa Richter
As one of the most eagerly anticipated new Thai restaurants to open in Bangkok in 2023, there are more than a few reasons to fall in love with Khaan. Most notable is chef ‘Aom’ Sujira Pongmorn. She is the creator and inspiration behind the venue and the creator of the elevated street food concept, which features premium ingredients, underutilised regional produce, and a firm commitment to zero-waste gastronomy.
Khaan (which translates to the word tiger) is a delightful culmination of style, substance, and fearless modern interpretations of classic Thai cuisine. With almost two decades of experience cutting her teeth in some of Bangkok’s most illustrious Michelin-star restaurants (such as Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin and Saawan), chef Aom has a unique approach all of her own, which earned her the Michelin’s Young Chef Award in 2021. “I want people to experience both the flavour and the emotion of each dish,” shared Aom. “It is more than the ingredients; the meal must tell a good story.”
The story begins from the moment you arrive at this modern venue with its peek-a-boo window kitchen that can be observed from the street before you enter the premises. The alluring aroma of mouth-watering food that welcomes you at the door and the striking minimalist design aesthetic that envelops you in cosy style and comfort only serve to emphasise this evocative feeling.
Open exclusively for dinner, this 18-table restaurant is devoid of an al a carte menu and instead focuses on a high-concept tasting menu of 11 courses that changes regularly and is accompanied by an optional wine or local tea pairing. The sommelier is well-versed and effortlessly pairs each dish with both old and new-world wines that elevate each offering.
One of the elements that make dining at Khaan special is the proliferation of dishes that are served tableside or are plated with a bit of drama and flare. Case in point is the Treehouse appetiser course and the flambeed ‘Pumpy-umpy-umpkin’ pumpkin dessert. “This is a celebration of Thai heritage and regional dishes. I am not just redefining street food, but transforming the dishes,” said Aom.
The menu is cohesive, well-paced, and highlighted by dishes such as the elegant Hokkaido scallop scallop with green mussel juice and makwaen (a wild Northern Thai black pepper similar to Sichuan) and the ethereal Barron Point oyster and Suratthani oyster with lacto-fermented king oyster mushrooms in tom-kha soup.”
The one dish that left me a bit weak in the knees is their signature rice paddy crab with sticky rice.” Earthy, smoky umami flavours permeate this masterful crab dip, which harmoniously balances with the salty-sweet sticky rice. You can taste the skill and restraint which has earned it a spot as one of the most provocative and delicious flavour combinations I have ever experienced.
Other highlights include the rich and creamy 24-hour organic egg yolk and crab curry which is delicately served in a hallowed out egg shell and their innovative version of the traditional Thai snack miang kham, which is pure genius and delivers the unadulterated pleasure of a perfectly balanced bite.
It is impossible to describe every dish, and honestly, it’s an experience best when you have it yourself. Suffice it to say, you will not be disappointed. Khaan is firing on all cylinders and delivering a unique first-class Thai fine dining experience. Showcasing exceptional skill in the kitchen, impeccable service, scrumptious wines, and brilliant cuisine, they are pushing the boundaries of modern Thai gastronomy and are establishing themselves as a thoughtful and exciting addition to the Bangkok food scene.
Factbox
Address: 14 3 Soi Somkid Lumphini, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330, Thailand
Phone: +66 92 441 6547
Website: khaanbkk.com
