Restaurant Review: Ormer Mayfair at Flemings Mayfair in London
I’m a true believer that often the service experience has a greater resonance upon what may end up on your plate. This certainly rings true for Ormer Mayfair, however here, if we are to measure up the two…the food and drink very much compete; much to my delight.
Embodying his adoration for the Channel Islands, Michelin starred chef Shaun Rankin celebrates the produce from this collection of British Islands with dishes circulating around seasonal produce. Fresh lobster, crab, oysters, hand dived scallops from the ocean with Jersey royals and hand-picked shoreline foraged herbs are key factors to Rankin’s menu; executed elegantly within the fine-dining restaurant’s opulent Mayfair setting.
At home within Flemings Mayfair hotel, there is no other way to describe the service at Ormer than utterly impeccable. In partnership, Rankin has brought on board Head Chef Kerth Gumbs and together they have manifested a dining concept that caters throughout the day from breakfast, lunch and dinner with a variety of adaptable menu options. From set lunch menus, the seasonally sensitive à lacarte to a pull your sleeves up and settle in seven-course tasting menu.
Produce is swiftly shifted across the UK from the fresh and salty ocean setting of the Channel Islands up to London’s metropolis and straight into Ormer’s central London kitchen. Materialising as a collection of refined dishes for Ormer’s diners to savour, executed to an impressive standard – starters here include one of Rankin’s best-known signature dishes, a Jersey lobster ravioli in a rich crab and tomato bisque with a shallot salad; hand-dived scallops served simply with raz-el-hanout, onion and smoked almonds while turning our attention to land sourced produce – a glazed rabbit loin accompanied by pancetta, king oyster mushroom and gnocchi.
Main dishes continue to truly champion the Channel Islands and the finest in British cuisine. Dover sole is executed along with a parade on its plate with smoked salmon, potato and leek risotto, served with crisp quail eggs and ‘secreto of Iberico pork’ with charred calamari, chorizo chutney and puréed Asian pear. Meanwhile Ormer’s showstopper in which we revelled with enjoyment – Rankin and Gumbs’ côte de boeuf, served alongside wild mushrooms, beer-cooked shallots, béarnaise sauce and triple cooked chips. Desserts are the epitome of classic ingredients for a friendly finish, from a chocolate mousse with salted caramel and smoked almonds, apple crumble with white chocolate, caramel and vanilla to Yorkshire rhubarb with white chocolate and candied ginger.
A sommelier with experience across a number of iconic London establishments including London’s wine centric members club 67 Pall Mall, COYA Mayfair and Mayfair’s luxury Chinese fine-dining hotspot Park Chinois, Ormer’s head sommelier – Svetoslav Manolev, has curated a wine list that elevates Rankin and Gumb’s menus with a list that puts world-renowned classic bins alongside new varietals. Manolev often encourages diners to start with a crisp and light label from the sparkling wine & champagne trolley which features an array of award-winning labels whilst other fizz options include a unique sherry-based sparkling wine from Spain for some added sparkle.
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