Talking fine dining: In the kitchen with Michelin-starred chef Sally Abé

As one of the UK’s most celebrated and awarded young chefs, Sally Abé’s impact on the London fine dining restaurant scene is perhaps unmatched.

The 34-year-old has a very impressive culinary background, having previously worked at The Savoy, Claridge’s, The Ledbury and then The Harwood Arms in Fulham between February 2017 and April 2021, during which time she retained the gastropub’s coveted Michelin star.

She was identified as ‘Chef to Watch’ in the National Restaurant Awards 2019 and was nominated for the GQ Chef of the Year 2021. Recently, Sally was included in CODE’s 100 Most Influential Women in Hospitality 2022.

However, The Pem is where Sally’s impact on the English capital’s upmarket restaurant scene has reached even greater heights. Known as London’s best kept secret and headed up by Sally, The Pem is a luxurious and lively fine dining restaurant located in the five-star Conrad London St James hotel in the heart of Westminster.

Sally Abé and team — The Pem is where Sally Abé’s (pictured in the middle) impact on the English capital’s upmarket restaurant scene has reached even greater heights. Image credit: Food Story Media Ltd

Named after suffragette Emily Wilding Davison, who was called Pem by her family, the restaurant aims to celebrate women – something reflected by Sally’s female-fronted team. Her hand-picked team includes the fresh talent of Michelin-trained head chef Laetizia Keating, and restaurant manager Maciej Lesiewicz, whose reputation for making guests feel special is unsurpassed.

The restaurant serves up a decadent menu based around fresh, local ingredients and offers a refined and sophisticated food experience Sally has become known for, without compromising on the sense of fun and liveliness that has always come with it. Built on the foundations of traditional British cuisine, each dish puts a new spin on familiar flavours and ingredients, and it’s all served up in cosy and inviting surroundings to ensure a memorable dining experience in every way.

We sat down with Sally, who is originally from Mansfield, to find out a little more about her culinary background as well as her plans for the future.

Can you tell us a little bit about yourself, including your where you are today, professionally, and what got you to having your own restaurant at Conrad London St James?

As part of my hospitality and business management degree at Sheffield Hallam University, I came to London in 2007 to undertake a year placement at The Savoy – and then never left! I just fell in love with cooking. Having worked in various London restaurants and after four years heading up the kitchen at The Harwood Arms, I then felt confident enough to have my own restaurant, so when this opportunity presented itself at Conrad London St James, it was amazing to have the freedom to serve the food I’ve always wanted to cook.

Food at The Pem restaurant — The Pem serves up a decadent menu based around fresh, local ingredients and offers a refined and sophisticated food experience Abé has become known for without compromising on the sense of fun and liveliness that has always come with it. Image credit: Food Story Media Ltd

Tell me more about what influenced the menu and design of The Pem restaurant?

The restaurant is inspired by suffragette Emily Wilding Davison, whose family used the pet name ‘Pem’ for her and celebrates generations of pioneering women leading from the front. This is reflected in the elegant Art Deco interiors at Conrad London St James and our menu is proudly British, championing high-quality local produce and influenced by the seasons.

How would you describe the food you create at The Pem?

I want people to enjoy classic British dishes that are much-loved but experience them in a new way. We aim to bring a sense of familiarity and transfer those flavours to high-end restaurant dining. I like the term elegant nostalgia.

What differences do you find working with local produce as opposed to non-local produce?

It’s obvious that produce which is flown half-way across the world, isn’t going to have the same level of quality it did when it left, and so by championing British produce it allows us to maintain that high-level of quality that we strive for. Our number one priority at The Pem is supporting local producers and using as many ingredients from our direct community as possible, working with long-standing trusted suppliers who we know attach the same importance to quality and sustainability as we do at The Pem.

The Pem Restaurant interior — The Pem, with its plush and atmospheric red interiors exudes cosiness and opulence, with plush furnishings and rosy accents that will make you feel right at home. Image credit: Food Story Media Ltd

How do you provide guests with the best experience at your restaurant during their stay?

We aim to tailor the experience of each and every guest to ensure they have a great stay. Allowing all guests to feel at ease in our restaurant and play on that feeling of nostalgia, both in the food and in the restaurant.

What do your future plans at The Pem entail?

Our main goal at The Pem is to continue to champion women in industry as much as possible, harnessing the momentum created from our sell-out International Women’s Day event. It would be amazing to host even more events around women in hospitality throughout the year, putting Conrad London St James and The Pem on the map as the place to host meaningful and thought-provoking discussions, continuing to put the ladder down for the next generation of aspiring females.