London’s gourmet trolley affair has acquired a befitting stature, synonymous with all things deliciously decadent with a dollop of classic tradition.
Serving up a slice of culinary carving dramatics is Wiltons, one of London’s oldest dining establishments whom, still not content with its already illustrious history by already earning a royal warrant, are reaching a highly coveted milestone this year by celebrating their 280th anniversary.
Wiltons’ priceless historic timeline dates back to 1742, when George William Wilton opened a shellfish-mongers in London’s Haymarket. George’s humble set-up proved destined to transform into a goldmine, with his oysters attaining immense success from the get go before passing the reins onto his son, Francis Charles Wilton.
A whirlwind of thriving victory tales, new names and fresh locations continued to amass throughout the decades, a favoured chapter being that of British merchant banker and frequent Wiltons guest, Olaf Hambro, whom, on a visit in 1942, famously stated for the restaurant to be ‘put at the end of the bill’, and the rest is history.
Fast forward to 2022, Wiltons continues to flourish in a reign as one of London’s most treasured eateries cherished by a discerning clientele of all ages, courtesy of their decadent surroundings, polished ambience, and an exquisite menu boasting an affair of unapologetically quintessential produce, seasonal ingredients and, of course, the esteemed daily meat trolley, which has witnessed an increasing vanishing existence on the radar, being confined for the most part inside London’s most bygone extravagant hotels and high-calibre saloons.
Courtly gentleman’s private club meets cosy ageless elegance in this luxe restaurant destination, nestled in the prestigious SW1Y postcode of St James’s Jermyn Street. The hosts, kitted in crisp tailored attire with not even a hair out of place, heartily welcomed me with serene poise as I was led through to my table. Spotless beige walls, intricate paintings, and plush, velvet banquettes abundant with cushion garments largely made up the aesthetics of the dining room, with, of course, the polished habitat of the oyster bar, which played that pivotal chief role in making Wiltons stand tall as the fabled eatery it is today.
On a recent visit, enjoyed a luncheon, which aptly began with a chilled flute of my favourite classic Nyetimber cuvee, freshly popped with a plentiful flow of bubbles bursting within the golden liquid incorporating notes of toasted vanilla, and honeyed apple for a subtle smooth experience. Although known for my fond partiality towards a cosmopolitan cocktail, the mid-week afternoon hours called for more fizzy concoctions this time with a deep, pink hued Gusbourne rose, distinctive yet delectable with gentle floral notes, and a rich palate of vibrant berries and currants for a clean, well rounded finish.
The starter selection showcases a mouth-watering array of hearty, wholesome dishes, whilst also encompassing chic style and grandeur flair to keep the current generation of high society clientele content. Delicate ocean fresh oysters including Pembrokeshire and Jersey Rock are served by the half dozen while mild, butter rich caviar comes served with warm soft buckwheat blinis and sour cream.
Non seafood lovers need not despair, the light, twice baked soufflé oozes with intense, Colston Bassett Stilton, whilst the onion velouté, with its velvet creamed texture, arrives with a heady cheddar scone, and freshly baked bread to mop any remainders.
The sight of a burrata, etched within the starter contents, has proved that even one of the Capital’s most traditional gems couldn’t resist the fight to turn against this mozzarella recipe, which has sealed its presence on copious menus around the nation, from your everyday local pub, to lavish five-star landmarks. Following much deliberation post witnessing a neighbouring table reveal lashings of Stracciatella and cream flow from the smooth, white cheese casing, I fought the urge in favour of a piping hot beef consommé, mild yet thick and ample with intense meat flavours for that full-bodied flavour experience.
The true feasting theatrics were to commence with the eagerly awaited carving trolley. For each of the six days (closed on Sundays), Wiltons operates with a fresh rotating lunch menu Monday to Friday, with a Saturday evening sitting housing only the first-rate, prime beef cuts, tender lamb servings and, of course, fresh seafood affairs for our sacred fish Fridays.
Be it a succulent serving of Dorset’s leg of lamb with mint sauce on Monday or a Saturday evening banquet of moist beef Wellington, the ever so gallant Wiltons hosts roll up by your side with their gleaming tables on wheels and wide smiles as they slice up the cuts with meticulous precision.
Even the most timeless of traditions never cease to fail in capturing individuals’ curiosity, as the eyes and heads of every clientele turned a full 180 degrees as my host wheeled up with this trademark main course. A Wednesday sitting made for a silver dome unearthing an A-1 roast sirloin of beef, perfectly cooked to medium rare refinement which sliced like butter at the hands of my acutely accomplished carver.
On hand to accompany the sirloin were a selection of sides in keeping with the pure-bred meat cut, including moist, fluffy Yorkshire puddings, and feather like potatoes encased inside a golden crisp potato skin, not neglecting the generous lashings of thick hearty gravy.
A meal of this fine calibre calls for an equally fine beverage accompaniment; St-Emilion Grand Cru, Château Milon, Bordeaux in this case. An elegant red with solid depth and ripe strawberry aromas, this wine made for a long finish and an ideal balance against the richness of the sirloin cut, and a perfect round off to an outstanding afternoon.
Although the meal left me incapable of even a spoonful of dessert, a curiosity peek of my neighbouring tables enables me to profusely recommend piping hot bread and butter pudding with rum custard and caramelised banana toppings, not withholding the apple crumble with hazelnut biscuits layers, and real vanilla custard.
In a nutshell
Wiltons has, beyond a doubt, carved outs its own calling in London’s luxe gastronomical scene, in a world where the lockdown curse spelt doom to even some some of the most beloved Michelin Star and long-standing luxury dining icons. To be on a golden route to close to 300 years of lip-smacking history, falls nothing short of awe-inspiring.
With its sophisticated ageless aura, debonair hosts and flavoursome cuisine, Wiltons parades the epitome of British fine dining that is perfect for formal lunches, private events and intimate dinners for friends and family alike.
Factbox
Address: 55 Jermyn Street, London, SW1Y 6LX
Telephone: 0207 629 9955
Website: wiltons.co.uk
All imagery supplied by Wiltons
