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Restaurant Review: Angel Above Portobello, Notting Hill in London

Angel Above Portobello is bringing a fine dining experience with great quality, local produce to the iconic Portobello Road.

By Cristian Burbano   |  

Notting Hill has become the must go foodie destination of late and it has just welcomed its latest addition, with the opening of Angel Above Portobello on the prime Portobello Road location. Located on the Ladbroke Grove side of the famous road, the 34-seater restaurant is headed up by executive chef Peter Breckon who has previously worked with some of the most renowned chefs and names in gastronomy from Heston Blumenthal to Mark Hix.

The restaurant is on the first floor of the The Distillery, the popular venue for gin lovers that features a fully functioning distillery and produces the world-famous Portobello Road Gin. The four-storey corner building also houses the critically acclaimed gin-blending experience, The Ginstitute, private function rooms and hotel rooms for those wishing to make their visit a longer one.

Ged Feltham, owner of the Angel above Portobello, said: “We look forward to welcoming diners, inviting them to sample a unique gastronomic experience in Peter’s exciting and distinctive menu; through cosmopolitan flavours and the highest standards of quality.” Angel Above Portobello offers diners modern British cuisine with a menu of carefully curated small and sharing plates, showcasing the best in local and seasonal produce.

Angel Above Portobello interior
Angel Above Portobello is bringing a fine dining experience with great quality, local produce to the iconic Portobello Road

Upon entry onto the first-floor dining room, you are welcomed by a cosy and inviting space, an unassuming room decorated in mint green tones and dark natural woods, with its very own bar, and a giant halo shaped chandelier at the centre with candles providing an inviting glow. Be sure to grab a window table as we did, with prime Portobello views, a perfect spot for people watching during your meal. Barrels adorn the back walls, a nod to the building’s gin production history. The space is stripped back with minimal fanfare or overly fussy decor, with the focus being, as it should be, on the menu. Offering sustainable options with its nose-to-tail menu containing lesser known but equally delicious cuts of meats to minimise its impact on the environment, with often discarded parts of beef and pork utilised to their fullest.

The restaurant provides a fine dining experience (at a good price point) to be shared among friends, with most of the menu compiled of small plates, on our visit we went for four small and two main plates. Diners can enjoy a selection of small plates from £10, mains from £19 and sharing plates from £55. Though categorised as ‘small’ the plates are on the larger side and can be easily and generously shared between two people, especially if you get a few as we did.

Small plates feature a variety of meat, seafood, poultry and vegetarian options. We went for a mix starting with the burrata, perfectly creamy in the centre and topped off with picked red onions, the duck ham next, with strips of cured then smoked duck that (as the name suggests) look like strips of prosciutto ham, tender and full of flavour they are given an extra tang with a dollop of cherry ketchup, leek mayonnaise, garnished with bronzed leaf fennel, seasonal leaves and a sprinkle of pistachio crumb. Alongside we were offered a plate of toasted sourdough bread slices, a must to soak up the delectable sauces that accompanied most dishes.

Angel Above Portobello lamb rump
The restaurant is headed up by executive chef Peter Breckon, who has worked with some of the most renowned chefs and names in gastronomy from Jamie Oliver to Heston Blumenthal and Mark Hix

The calamari dish could have been stronger, slightly salty and greasy but beautifully plated, with an almost abstract art painting design with circles of lemon and aioli sauces. Things ended strong with the lamb rump, again cooked to a perfect point, crispy exterior with a succulent centre and paired with a dill yogurt base, bold yellow girolle mushrooms, peas and a dill ketchup garnish.

Onto the mains, we went for the bavette steak option although there several options including pork, chicken halibut and confit cauliflower for non-meat eaters. I ordered the steak medium rare and was presented on a bed of caramelised onions with roasted potatoes, a stem of broccoli and carrot puree with a side of gravy. If you can’t wait until Sunday for your roast then this is the spot for a midweek one, beautifully plated and cooked well, my only critique would be a few more roast potatoes wouldn’t go a miss.

We were too full for dessert but looking at the menu they offered chocolate and peanut butter dishes as well as a vegan lemon meringue, and if you had a more savoury tooth then a classic British cheeseboard accompanied by crackers and chutney. Alongside the food menu they also offer a comprehensive drinks menu, from bubbles to wine and spirits, given its’s history we opted for a round of classic gin and tonics.

Angel Above Portobello table and view
Angel Above Portobello is offering up carefully prepared small plates along with sharers designed to make the most of premium and lesser known cuts

Fair to say that Angel Above Portobello is a welcome addition to Notting Hill’s thriving foodie scene, offering a strong array of traditional British dishes with a twist, while also maintaining a sustainable ethos at its core. Portions are generous and prices (for London) are relatively affordable, all in all a must visit if you’re in the area.

Angel Above Portobello welcomes guests Wednesday to Friday, from 6pm to 2am, and on Saturdays, from 1pm to 2am, with food service operating until 10pm.

Factbox

Address: 2nd Floor, The Distillery, 186 Portobello Road, London, W11 1LA
Phone: 020 3034 2233
Website: angelofmercia.co.uk

All imagery credit: Angel Above Portobello