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Restaurant Review: Sushisamba, Covent Garden in London

The second London restaurant from the group in Covent Garden sweeps elegantly along the eastern side of the famous piazza. LLM’s Georgie Bentley-Buckle recently visited for sushi in the Big Smoke.

By Georgie Bentley-Buckle   |  

Situated in Covent Garden’s piazza, Sushisamba’s second London outpost makes a statement designed to impress. Opening in 2018 in the grade II-listed market building, beneath its glass roof, the bustling open kitchen, bar and dining room frame the charismatic heritage of Covent Garden; whilst the sun casts across the ancient buildings and worn cobbles each day, before lighting up beautifully at night. 

The hosts usher arrivals up into the restaurant to reveal a hidden rainforest in the form of the living canopy ceiling. A verdant welcome away from the urban maze that the Big Smoke is renowned for, the restaurant transports guests from the local pints and pies to the exotic locales its dishes embody. 

Light and fresh lobster taquitos in crispy shells
Light and fresh lobster taquitos in crispy shells

A vibrant fusion of flavours from Japan, Brazil and Peru offers a dynamic portfolio of plates that are fresh, spicy and decadent with culinary creativity which they describe as ‘limitless’ for every palate. Centred around the blaze of the open kitchen where diners can witness the team firing up the robata grill that dramatically roasts many meats, fish and vegetables is the restaurant’s new Taste of Samba tasting menu – a snapshot of the team’s signature favourites. 

Encouraging guests to share flavours and dishes from the intriguing corners of the globe, this new Taste of Samba tasting menu allows guests to sample a handful of what they consider to be their finest dishes, fresh from the kitchen. Designed to be paired with the lengthy wine and cocktail lists, luxurious, reinvented dishes to start include the lightly fried green bean tempura with a smooth truffle mayonnaise for dipping, large, bright yellow plantain chips and edamame tossed in sea salt and lime juice. 

Taste of Samba tasting menu
This new Taste of Samba tasting menu allows guests to sample a selection of what they consider to be their finest dishes

The next chapter of this signature selection brings to the table two light and fresh lobster taquitos in crispy shells, with a selection of rich wagyu gyozas to pair before a delightful Chilean sea bass with miso and Peruvian corn, with asparagus fresh from the grill and a sweet soy glaze. 

Japanese wagyu soon makes an entrance. This is decadently finished with caviar and shaved truffle with a nigiri sushi selection from the chef and a lamb chop from the nearby robata grill. This comes with a must-try mushroom ‘tobanyaki’ (a roasted selection of creamy, truffle mushrooms finished with an oozing poached egg). To finish (last but certainly not least) is the dessert featured in this new tasting menu, which deserves ample attention. I’ve never been one to vouch much for dessert, but Sushisamba’s chocolate banana cake is a must. Our satisfaction was so evident that neighbouring tables ordered for a taste themselves. 

Sushisamba dish
Situated in Covent Garden’s piazza, Sushisamba’s second London outpost makes a statement designed to impress

This new Taste of Samba menu is perfect for those who may feel overwhelmed by the selection available at Sushisamba. If you’re however well versed in these Eastern and South American delicacies, then the wider menu has everything you would ever want (and probably more).

Highlights include sashimi (tuna to salmon and sea bass), to yellowtail with the iconic garnish of jalapeños and lemongrass. Whilst from the traditional Japanese charcoal robata grill is pork belly with butterscotch miso and asparagus with sweet soy. The robata black cod is another must and the T-bone steak with burnt hispi, chimichurri, and yuca fries will win over any carnivore. For those who consider themselves more adventurous (among many more) is sea urchin or freshwater eel sushi. Devoted sushi fans can also tuck into the California snow crab or crabmeat tiger maki rolls.

Factbox

Website: sushisamba.com/locations/uk/london-covent-garden
Phone: 020 3053 0000
Address: 35 The Mkt, London WC2E 8RF